Concept to Creation: The Jumper Dress

Step 1: The Inspiration

One of the first steps to any design is to find your inspiration. It can be a time period, a costume, an object, or just about anything.

I am starting the interview process for internships and I needed a business outfit but I didn't want to wear a suit. I wanted to have something business like but youthful and not so rigid. Most of my inspiration comes from old /50s/60s movies. I wanted to go for a 50's junior assistant/secretary/Nancy Drew-ish look.

The jumper has princess seams, single piped pockets (like back pockets on nicer pants), a big belt loops, a back invisible zipper, and box pleats on the front and back, with a slight flair to the skirt.

The shirt would be a vented front with a large starched collar and short sleeves with french cuffs.

Step 2: Make the Pattern/Layout and Cut


There are 2 ways to create something. You can drape or make a pattern. When draping, you can go straight from fabric to finished garment but if you want to duplicate something then you will always need to make a pattern from the draped garment. For me it's fastest to just start with a a pattern.

Making a pattern starts with a sloper. Slopers are a very basic pattern without seam allowance which you can manipulate to make other patterns.

From the slopers I make drafts of the pieces of my garment. From the drafts I make the final pattern with seam allowances. From there one should test the garment in muslin but given that I know my slopers pretty well and have made other things that are similar, I know how things will turn out.

When cutting out your material you should alway mark your notches and darts. Some suggest thread tracing and others do it with pins. The type of dart or marking determines what I use. You can also use white tracing paper, but never any other color, as it won't come off.


Step 3: Baste and fit
Technically, you are supposed to baste and then fit your garment. I machine baste and fit as I go along.

Step 4: Sewing
One important step about sewing is having a good iron and pressing supplies. The best items to have are a sleeve roll or sleeve board, a ham, a pressing cloth, a point turner, and a really good iron.


Step 5: The Finished product

Along the way I made some design changes. The biggest was adding puffier sleeves to the shirt. It also has a zipper in the side seam so that I could add darts to make it more fitted. I didn't want a bunchy shirt under the jumper.





So there you have it. A garment from concept to creation.

The R&R beret

Here it is... the R&R beret to commemorate my weekend of rest and relaxation with Rhinebeck and Ravelry. Made in a similar style to my Pumkinhead Hats, this hat is a beret style hat but with a simple texture pattern to highlight any cool variegated worsted weight yarn. It is knit flat and seamed.




The R&R Beret
by Sauniell N. Connally
copyright 2007
For non-commercial use only

Yarn: Manos del Uruguary (3.5oz/ 100grams, 138 yds/ 126 meters) - 1 skein
Color shown: #113 Wildflower

Needles: US 6 (4.00 mm) straights, US 8 (5mm) straights
Supplies: Stitch markers, tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 sts/24 rows per 4in/10cm in simple seed stitch pattern

Size: One size fits most
Skill Level: Beginner



Simple Seed Stitch Pattern
Row 1: *(k1, p1) , repeating from *
Row 3: *(p1, k1), repeating from *
Row 2 & 4: purl all sts



Pattern:

Using US 6 (4.00 mm) needles, cast on 78 sts.
Row 1: k1, *k2, p2, repeating from * to last st, k1.
Row 2: p1, *k2,p2, repeating from * to last st, p1.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice.

Next RS row: Switching to the US 8 needle, k1,*k2,m1, repeating from * to last st, k1. (116 sts)
Next row: purl all sts.

Next row: k1, and begin row 1 of the simple seed stitch pattern to the last st, k1.
Continue on, working the stitch pattern until the hat measures 4 inches from the ribbing.

Next RS row: work 2o sts, pm, *work 19, pm, repeating from * 3 times, work 20 sts. Work WS row in pattern.
Next RS row (right decreases): k1, skp, * work to next marker, slm, skp , repeating from * 4 times, then work to the end. Work one row in pattern. (110 sts)
Next RS row (left decreases): *work to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, repeating from * 4 times, then working to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (104 sts)
Repeat the last 4 rows once. (92 sts)

Next RS row: work row making right and left decreases at row beg, end, and markers as done in the rows above. (80 sts)
Repeat in this manner on every RS row until there are 5 sts between each marker.
Next RS row: work row making right decreases. (26 sts)

Cut a long tail and using a tapestry needle, string tail through the loose stitches and tighten and secure. Block hat and seam side.


Glossary
m1 - make one k2tog - knit two together
pm - place marker skp - slip st, k1, pass slipped stitch over
slm - slip marker RS - right side

Introducing Billie

BILLIE


MATERIALS

Yarn: Karabella Aurora 8 , 100% Merino Wool
98 yds (90 m)
Cropped: 9[10, 10, 12, 15, 16 ] skeins
Regular: 12[15, 15, 18, 22, 25 ] skeins

Yarn Substitutions: Any worsted weight yarn with 18st/26 row st-st gauge

Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm) straight needles
US 6 (4.0 mm) straight needles

Supplies:
1 yd horsehair braid -1 inch wide (for collar),
14 in or 20 in separating zipper

Gauge: 25sts-26 rows per 4 inch(10cm) in honeycomb cable pattern

Sizes: XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X]
Finished Bust: 30[34, 38, 42, 46,50]

Skill Level: Experienced

Shown: Cropped jacket, size M, color 885



Price: $6.00 US



You will receive an email from E-Junkie with a link to the PDF file.

Check It Out

If you haven't seen it already,check out my latest pattern at Magknits

Vex

Vex




Yarn: Malabrigo Kettle Dyed Pure Merino Wool Worsted from pureknits
216 yds (197 m)
6[6, 7, 7, 8 ] skeins

Yarn Substitutions: Any worsted weight yarn

Needles: US 8 (5 mm) straight needles
US 8 (5 mm) circular needles - 16 inches
US 9 (5.5 mm) circular needles – 16 inches

Sizes: XS/S [M/L, XL, 1X, 2X]
Finished Bust: 34[40,43,47,50]

Skill Level: Intermediate


Price: $5.00 US



(you will receive a email from E-Junkie with a link to the PDF file)

Scatter

Named for it's seemingly scattered stitch pattern.



Yarn: Berroco Touche
89 yds (82 m)
5[5,6,6,7,7,7] skeins

Yarn Substitutions: Any worsted weight yarn

Needles: US 8 ( 5 mm) circular needles - 24 inches

Supplies: Stitch markers, stitch holder, waste yarn, extra needle

Gauge: 18sts-24 rows per 4 inch(10cm)

Sizes: XS [ S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X]
Bust: 32[34,36,38,40,42,44]

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner


Price: $3.50





(you will receive a email from Payloadz with a link to the PDF file)

Sweet Tees

Like the favorite southern drink, these tees are perfect for the summer heat!



Tee #1

Yarn: Pakucho Cotton 88 yds (81 m) 5[5,6,6,7,7] skeins
Needles: US 7 ( 4 mm) needles
Sizes: XS [ S, M, L, XL, XXL]
Bust: 32[34,36,38,40,42]
Skill Level: Advanced*




Tee #2

Yarn: Blue Sky Alpaca Cotton 150 yds (135 m) 2[3,3,3,3,4] skeins
Needles: US 7 ( 4 mm) needles
Sizes: XS [ S, M, L, XL, XXL]
Bust: 32[34,36,38,40,42]
Skill Level: Advanced*




Tee #3

Yarn: Lion Brand Cotton-Ease 207 yds (188 m) 2[2,2,2,3,3] skeins
Needles: US 7 ( 4 mm) needles
Sizes: XS [ S, M, L, XL, XXL]
Bust: 31[33,35,37,39,41]
Skill Level: Advanced*


*Require chart reading.

Price: $6.00





After purchase, you will receive an email with the link to a pdf file.

The Jems Collection

Introducing The Jems Collection



Pattern: Diamonique
Sizes: XS/S(M,L/XL,XXL) *
Bust: 32(36,40,44) inches
Yarn Requirements: Patons Brillant - 4(5,5,6) balls
or any light DK weight yarn
Needles: US 3 (3.25mm) circular & US 5 (3.75mm) straights
Gauge: 20 sts - 26 rows per 4 inches

*Sizing Note
There are only four sizes in this pattern. The sizes for XS/S and L/XL are multi-fit. For the smaller of the two sizes it will have a slightly looser fit, for the higher it will have a closer fit. This sizing is required to reduce confusion in working the lace pattern.





Pattern: Ruby
Sizes: XS(S,M,L,XL,XXL)
Bust: 30(32,34,36,38,40)
Yarn Requirements: Southwest Trading Company Pheonix- 3(3,3,4,4,5) skeins
or any worsted weight yarn
Needles: US 6(4mm) circular & US 8 (5mm) straights
Gauge: 16 sts - 24 rows per 4 inches


Price: $5.50 (both patterns are included)


Once purchased, the file will be emailed to you in pdf form.

Ms Pinky C. Pattern

Here she is in all her glory.... Ms. Pinky C!



Pattern: Ms. PinkyC
Sizes: S(M,L,XL)XXL
Yarn Requirements: Karabella Aurora 4 - 4 balls brown, 2 balls pink
Needles: US 3 (3.25mm) straights & 16 in. circulars


Price: $4.00



(Once you purchase, the file will be emailed to you in pdf form. )